December 1, 1958

June 16th, 2010

This is Post #50 in the new Series “Going to Afghanistan”.

~ The roots of a $1 Trillion Dollar “discovery” and a little about oil from the gulf.

I know you probably find it a little hard sometimes to see things “my way”.  A little documentation is always nice.  You can get your own copy of this from the Agency for International Development (AID) (archives - it was ICA in 1958) if you don’t believe me; if you think I photo-shop things myself.  These documents are real.

So I am posting a few “family mementos” - papers from the past to show that “what’s new” is maybe not so new.

Exhibit ‘A’ is a simple list from Fred’s Division (not military, but maybe a little like military just the same) - maybe like the first American Invasion of Afghanistan (circa 1958; not the 2001 one at all).

I didn’t see it as an invasion then; I saw it more like “doing good”, like “a trip”, like “my life” in Afghanistan - a nice place (then).  But looking back on the documents (from now) makes them seem a little more disconcerting.  The projects, but more - the priorities - are clear.  You don’t need it spelled out with big numbers, starting with “one”, to make the point.  You don’t need a document deliberately without a date to make the point.  But here it IS and it is so abundantly clear (now).

10 of the Projects of ICA in Afghanistan - circa 1958.

Clayton Family Document from the Donald Clayton collection - This image is contributed to the Public Domain under the parameters of Qala Bist Blue.

This list shows the project ID numbers and the ICA USOM/A person in charge of the specific project.  Actually, several projects often fell within the parameters suggested by this list; and as you will see by subsequent documents the “scope” of the parameters was often changing.

Projects pertinent to the identification of and development of (exploitation of) Mineral Resources and coal production in Afghanistan was in the hands of Robert Davis in 1958.  This is perhaps interesting to consider in light of the release two days ago of the U.S. Military assessment of the potential (in 2010) of the Mineral Resources of Afghanistan.

This thing goes a long way back folks!

In case it is not as clear to YOU as it is to me let’s look at this list a bit with fresh eyes.  The exploitation of Afghanistan’s natural resources is #1.  #2 is reconnaissance and mapping; there were no satellite surveillance systems then, no ground penetrating radar; but a good geologist (like Fred) could see things just the same (and did; and so did many others).

The Helmand Valley was first about electric power (not agriculture, more the ruse).  Fred was an engineer that built dams and airports; irrigation was act two - “power” always precedes food on THIS planet.  Which brings us to “industry” and Industrial Districts (in Kandahar); industry needs power (back to #3).

#5 is “Educational Facilities” the battle for the “hearts and minds”.  Kabul University (an American project) was not about philosophy, theory, religion and good government - it was there to teach science (nuclear engineering, chemistry - things like that).  #6 brings us finally to “food”; but not food in the old way (old ways) - this is “new food” folks, maybe not genetic engineering “GM” (yet, but not too far from it.  Lashkar Gah was an American community (per design), tractors and chemicals all made in the U.S.S.A. - Whoray!

#7 is the “Air Power” thing.  KIA was the first “Jet Port”; Bagram came close behind; then the Russians built Kabul (International Airport) and the war was on.  #8 is of course about the OIL!  Roads to replace camel trails and caravans, trucks burning fossil fuels always coming in; you’ve seen the pictures, the trucks - Fred’s car; all the other “American” cars there (mostly just for show) - a real CAR SHOW with all the American models and the model of America - America using Oil!

#9 - always “number nine” - more oil folks.  Oil for asphalt, oil for trucks, oil for cars - make Afghanistan dependent on oil.   And then we have the “Code 10″ “Ten code” #10.  It means everything from “fight in progress” to “bomb threat” to “off-duty”.  You take your pick, we’re talking “Afghan regional transit” here; sounds like a roadside bomb to me; or maybe just neglected infrastructure - this country ain’t going nowhere under the Americans baby (not maybe).

Let me make it CLEAR.  I never saw all of this this way until today!  This list was made before Fred came along; Fred (my father) did not make this list.  He was given this list by someone “higher up” the chain.  I’m not convinced he even understood at the time “the plan”, the “stakes”; what someone was really after.  He loved Afghanistan and the people; but too - he had a job to do - let’s put that job to an end - a real end - like let’s stop that JOB right now!

Stop the drilling Take down the walls and dams and damn walls!  Let the people free!

Note:  For more documents and documentation check the monthly posts under 1958; the document list is growing.  I will try to make a “click here” list; but you know that I’m still looking for pictures of two old cars and columns east of Beirut (so don’t hold your breath).  Maybe I should create a new catagory “Documents” and make it real(ly) easy.

[First posted  2010.06.16 / Wednesday ]  11:35 P.M. Mountain War Time

The Right of Return

June 7th, 2010

~ Going back, always going back.

So I just hit my “return” key to write this post, to write another line.  I was going to write instead about the Encyclopedia Britannica filmstrips of the forties and what a marvelous transformation it was to move up to a 13 inch black and white TV (circa the early 1950’s).

Knowing history (and even growing) is like that.  One starts with almost nothing, a very small image of things, always black & white.  Then in time the screen gets larger, perspective grows, one knows and learns a little more - maybe sound is added - later even color.  And as the world turns we get the bigger picture on the big screen, CinemaScope and Technicolor; meaning a wider screen and truer color.  At this point we still don’t have Dolby Sound, Cinerama, I-Max, 4-D Vision, or all the other good stuff that might help in seeing and feeling what is really there - but we’re making progress.

The problem is when people fossilize.  The problem is when they are content with the big boxy film images from the past, grainy black and white stuff with flickers, grating (not great) sound, actors on stage jerking around because the projector does not match the film (being shown).  Most theaters never cared about this last one; nor theater owners.  “Just play the old frame per minute movies on the new equipment”, they said (meaning what they told the projectionist) - “the sheeple will not care, they’ll just get a laugh out of things (that aren’t really funny)”.

So now that you have this short history of film, fact, and entertainment - we can move on with this, my metaphor.  Getting history “through the keyhole” is not good.  I try to throw the door wide open; I encourage you to walk in, sit down / stand up; run around and feel the furniture - to know what is there and where you really are.  So sit down folks, it’s time for today’s production.  This one is Cinerama with surround sound without the pesky Cinerama center lines.  If you’re used to “black & white” and don’t want the bigger vision - just walk out.  Refunds happily given at the refreshment counter…

The Right of Return - a “Donald Clayton” production (ta - ta) 

{Scene opens with a picture of war weary Afghans and the capitulation of the American forces}

The Afghan people have suffered long enough.  It has been two thousand years (or less or more) of endless war.  The suffering WILL continue - see the film footage now.  The Afghans of course are tired of all of this; it’s not the people but the place they say.  They want and need a homeland more like a real home where in the future they can work, live and prosper.

{Narrator / film critic chimes in and says, “Wow, This IS a real plot - What A Movie! - WOW! - Play THIS ONE again Sam; I think we have a winner!}

So all the Afghan scholars looked back, looking for a place with roots to root their aspirations and to which they (meaning “all” the Afghans) could return.  What the scholars found was what everybody already knew (if you were Afghan) and that is there really is and was SUCH A PLACE! It is a land of milk and honey.  God and history gave the land to me (”me” meaning all the Afghans interested in the dream, the land, the place that they dreamed to go).

{There is a musical interlude, almost an intermission.  Great moving patriotic songs, love songs from Afghanistan’s past, songs borrowed from the human rights causes of others all are played.  A chorus sings.  Scenes of all the past wars and suffering are shown.  It ALL is quite moving!}

At first not everybody bought it, or bought into it - meaning the Afghan “solution”.  Some people had their doubts, voiced objections, complained.  Things always go down that way.  But the Afghan people were patient; they lined up their (little appreciated) history and presented all the facts.  New writers joined the fray - spokes men and spokes women who knew the history, backed everything with very good research and facts and more facts.

They explained all of the voyages, the treks across the land, the sparse unsettled nature of EVERYTHING before they first arrived, “like a wilderness” is what they said.  And it WAS.  No, the Afghans WERE NOT lying.  They found it, settled it, taught the natives a thing or two (really everything they know or knew).  And in the end they simply said, “This Land is OURS, This land is Mine!”

{“Oh Glory to the Afghans!  Glory to the great Afghan nation!  The “Hindu” Kush no more.  No more living in the land claimed always by ALL the others; we have OUR historic land which we can claim.  We DO HAVE a RIGHT of return!”  Camera moves to shots of happy hopeful faces.}

Of course the Chinese immediately sided with the Afghans.  The Chinese offered to help them.  The Chinese said that they would do everything in their power - including moving heaven and earth to help the Afghans, their friends.  The Chinese of course knew.  They were there too.  They helped the Afghan missionaries the first time, they promised to help again.  They knew THEY had an equal right to claim this new (old) homeland, but they didn’t and didn’t care.  The Chinese HAD (and have) a HOME LAND; they’re happy with their home - they don’t need or want to move.

{The camera pans to pictures of the Great Chinese armies, the nuclear armed aircraft carriers, the missiles, the cannon and the endless artillery, the thousands of Chinese aircraft and bombers, ten thousand landing craft - enough to move an entire nation across the seas and waters.  The narrator says: “Wow!  It does look like the Afghans do have some support for this thing.  Maybe they really do have a clear right of return!}

The Afghans of course did not say, “Might makes right”.  They just wanted the right to have those citizens (of the new country) to be freely accepted by the new counties that occupied the land of the Afghans original “old country”.  They didn’t (in terms paraphrased by others) “want no gringos or wetbacks to impede the progress of the Afghan infiltration”.  The Afghans of course were too polite to use these racist words; but that’s what they thought about the “johnny come latelys” that occupied the Afghans ancient land in America.

In the beginning the Afghans plan was to “work with” these people.  Share the land, space, cultural experiences and observe “cultural expression”.  Then (of course) more Afghans would (WILL!) follow.  The (old) native villages will then of course have to move.  Chinese made bulldozers might help do the trick; or maybe just wait for the “brown flight” as the new browner race moved in, in numbers - in ever daily increasing numbers as the Chinese boats kept bringing all the new fresh Afghan faces ashore - by the thousands, by the the millions of Afghans that there really are!

{The narrator asks the question:  “Is there a blockade against these people?  Why won’t they let the Chinese ships freely in?  Why won’t they let the Afghans cross the borders and get to their native lands.  The Afghans WERE here first; EVERYBODY knows that now!  Let the Afghans work, play, bring and raise their families, have four wives and maybe two dozen children from the four - it IS cultural and (religious) tradition!  Oh please, Let the Afghans have their way!  It is SO RACIST to have it any other way!}

So Israel had to stop and think about the Afghans.  Some in Mexico had to stop and think a bit about it too.  The Americans had to think about the Afghans.  The native Americans just thought that the Afghans were invaders, but they had to then look at their own history too.

The question on everybody’s mind was of course, “Is there a RIGHT to return?”  Who’s rights are effected?  Who has the right to just live and stay; or does population rule EVERYTHING; the greater the numbers, the greater the weapon power and “you win”?

{The narrator makes the following announcement:  “The Chinese government today just announced that 50% of the “Chinese” population is really “Afghan” and the Chinese are demanding the full right of “return“!}

Now a billion Chinese “Afghans” are coming over (across the Pacific once again) in the great fleets built by China with all the American dollars that they made, with the steel that they made, in the ships that they made and are making.  It is like a great “family reunion” in America now.  What goes around has come around.  Pharsi and Chinese signs are everywhere.  All the new laws are in Chinese, all the new temples are Chinese Mosques from where Buddhism is spread - like it was in the beginning when the first Chinese and Afghans “discovered” this great land a thousand or so years before.  I guess things really do work out.  I guess “return” is good.

{There is a great beating of melodious drums; Chinese drums, Afghan drums, Korean drums too (some Koreans were Chinese so these people are Afghans too).  Streamers are flying, kites are flying, there are pictures of the Great Bamian Buddhas fully restored; recreations of the great Chinese sea-going Junks that crossed the seas so long ago so all of this could happen.  The camera does NOT “fade to black”, instead there is a burst of color; not the words “The End” or “Fin”, but “THE BEGINNING” fills the screen.  The audience (meaning you) doesn’t know whether to stay, or leave!}

Epilogue:

“Give me a break!  An “epilogue” to a movie?  How Lame!”, you MIGHT say.  That IS what people say when they miss the point of a whole movie, not just the Britannica film strip version of things.

The real point is that all the points I made ARE true.  The events depicted really ARE Afghan and Chinese history (that YOU SHOULD know).  Every person in every culture is very culturally blind; and politically blind too.  I’m not saying “restricted or tunnel vision” - I said blind, I mean blind.

The BLIND ARE still leading the blind.   Glasses, contact lenses; laser surgery even, will not help.  Even the sighted following blind leaders around doesn’t make the leaders see.  So what to do?  Join the A Thousand Ships of Light flotilla is what I say.  Make a poster or a sign; post something on the web - send an E-Mail or two to make it happen.  You don’t need to pack your bags yet.  Just get ready.  Spread the word!  Post up a real storm before the real storm hits.

Photograph of Chinese Premier Chou En-lai (Zhou En lai) and Prime Minister Daoud (Daud) of Afghanistan - Kabul, Afghanistan - January 1960.

Afghanistan - Ancient Land with Modern Ways - page #175 photograph from the Donald Clayton collection - This image is contributed to the Public Domain under the parameters of Qala Bist Blue.

As Chinese Foreign Minister Chou En-lai visited Afghanistan in late January of 1957.  In 1960 he returned pursuant to a frienship treaty that celebrated 2,000 years of Chinese-Afghan friendship inherent to the Silk Road commerce through to Rome.  The agreement referred to a “new silk road”.  Now there is a new “New silk road” that is bringing the first railroad into Afghanistan - a China connection!

Photograph of Radio Kabul central control panel in 1960.

Afghanistan - Ancient Land with Modern Ways - page #114 photograph from the Donald Clayton collection - This image is contributed to the Public Domain under the parameters of Qala Bist Blue.

Does this man look Chinese.  Of course not.  He IS an Afghan.  But the Afghans and Chinese have been pooling their genes for maybe 5,000 years so what is YOUR point?  I’ve made mine.

Chronology - the Afghan version of the world and the history of the Afghan people; maybe even (after 1222) Afghanistan.  There is no mention of a “home land”.

Afghanistan - Ancient Land with Modern Ways - page #198 “Chronology” from the Donald Clayton collection - This image is contributed to the Public Domain under the parameters of Qala Bist Blue.

If you look to the year 453 (A.D.) you will find the secret to a tremendous amount of history.  Like #1 - Who really “discovered” America first.  #2 - Why the Aztec / Maya expected a return of wise “white men”.  #3 - Who the real “four corners” originators of all things really were.  #4 - Why the “swastika” design is found both in Tibet, China, and the Southwest region of the USA; brought to Afghanistan by the Romans and before by the Greeks.  The Afghans didn’t really use it; the Chinese more often did.  #5 - And then there are all those cliff dwellings (in the Southwest), like in Bamiyan (in Afghanistan) so long before.

No, America’s presence in Afghanistan is NOT about the Taliban.  It IS about the history; about Bamiyan a bit, about Qala Bist and the underground vaults with treasures, maybe maps, maybe all the records that have been “lost”.   It’s about all the other cities (ruins only half explored).  It’s about China and the great encirclement - circle game - bases from Bagram to Osan and Okinawa in-between.

Oh yes; a WAR is coming.  But it is always good to know WHY.  If everyone knew “why” we could stop it.  It’s the “Y” of history thing.

Meanwhile:  The Thousand Ships of Light post is here.  The Artists Wanted post is here.  The All Ashore that are Going Ashore post is hereYour Map and the itinerary post is here.  And the Four pictures of Qala Bist picture post is here.

But one more image before I go (for today):

“Head of Buddhist monk found in Afghanistan in 1923, dates to First Century A.D.”

Afghanistan - Ancient Land with Modern Ways - page #31 Photograph from the Donald Clayton collection - This image is contributed to the Public Domain under the parameters of Qala Bist Blue.

The Buddhist influence in Afghanistan lasted for 1,000 years.  Afghanistan was a major center of Buddhist activity and thought; and as the text associated with this photograph makes clear, “By the First Century A.D., Afghanistan had developed Buddhist traditions which flourished for nearly a thousand years.  Afghan missionaries spread out to carry Buddhism to all parts of Asia.”

The Afghan missionaries that went on the Chinese Junks to America and the Yucatan probably looked something like “this” (meaning like the face in the picture above).  Looks “Afghan” to me; or maybe too like a Greek God.

[First posted 2010.06.07 / Monday  The Right of Return]  1:25 P.M. Mountain War Time

Five pictures of Qala Bist

June 5th, 2010

The arch at Qala Bist - Qala Bist / Qala Bost, Afghanistan - April 1959.

Clayton Family Photograph by Fred W. Clayton from the Donald Clayton collection - This image is contributed to the Public Domain under the parameters of Qala Bist Blue.

The remains of the city of Qala Bist can be seen above the arch.  The man in white gives a sense of the scale of the Arch at Qala Bist (Afghanistan).

The arch at Qala Bist - Qala Bist / Qala Bost, Afghanistan - April 1959.

Clayton Family Photograph by Fred W. Clayton from the Donald Clayton collection - This image is contributed to the Public Domain under the parameters of Qala Bist Blue.

The arch in detail at Qala Bist - Qala Bist / Qala Bost, Afghanistan - April 1959.

Clayton Family Photograph by Fred W. Clayton from the Donald Clayton collection - This image is contributed to the Public Domain under the parameters of Qala Bist Blue.

This photograph shows the partial restoration and repairs to the “right side” of the arch at Qala Bist in Afghanistan.   The geometry of the underlying arch is a ten pointed matrix that yields to a randomly repetitious orbit of ten five pointed stars. The arch is composed of mud brick, fired mud brick, glazed brick, and incredibly beautiful glazed tile.

The Arch at Qala Bist before the restoration - Qaleh Bist / Qala Bost, Afghanistan - April 1959.

Afghanistan - Ancient Land with Modern Ways - page #30 photograph from the Donald Clayton collection - This image is contributed to the Public Domain under the parameters of Qala Bist Blue.

This photograph shows the remarkable arch at Qala Bist in Afghanistan.  The caption for this picture says, “Remains of the massive arch of Qaleh Bist near Lashkargah date back over 1000 years”  The date that this photograph was taken is unknown.  But if you read the article linked here carefully you will notice two things.  One, the “fort at Bost” dates to 500 B.C.  Two, there was a Kushan presence here and “the round concrete plug” does not seem to yet exist; or is it the photographs that I am talking about (or both)?

“Under” the Arch at Qala-i-Bist Afghanistan - August 22, 2007.

Photographic image by “Nathan” - taken while stationed with the U.S. military in Afghanistan.  This image is used to safeguard this extremely important world cultural site information.

There are only two official World Cultural Sites in Afghanistan - there probably should be twenty (20).  However, Qala Bist is the one (not on the list) that I am most interested in.  “Nathan” took this picture; he had a blog and posted it (the picture).  There has been no public word from Nathan since February 16, 2009.  I pray that he is OK; that everyone he comes in contact with stays OK - being in the military is usually a hard, hard thing.

What impresses me most about Nathan is his posting of a quote (in his last post) from April 23, 1910, “Man in the Arena”.  These are the words Fred (my father) always said about his  work in Afghanistan - history full circle once again.

The point about the small picture from “Bost” that Nathan brought us is that it seems that the cover (the concrete plug) to underneath the arch has been lifted since the major U.S. military presence there.  This raises many, many questions.

But before I point them (the questions) out it should be noted that this could be another “tunnel down” into the recesses of Qala Bist.  The recess (tunnel) at the arch may still remain (plugged).  I do not know; maybe someone with a camera in Afghanistan (at Bost) could clarify all this for me (and you).  But to continue…

This “shaft” does lead eventually to water, to tunnels and to more tunnels - perhaps to 10,000 miles of tunnels underneath the sands of Qala Bist and halfway north to Bamiyan and way over to near Kandahar, even north toward Ghazni.  I’ve been in these tunnels, “crevasses” (as they are called in Afghanistan) - they’re called “Qanat” in Iran.  In the southern half of Afghanistan they are everywhere - I’ve mentioned this long, long before.

So it would be a “military necessity” to open up these tunnels and send some bodies in.  A thousand military operatives maybe; maybe two thousand or even three.  It is the “underground” war in Afghanistan; win that one or ONE will lose!  But, it’s not so much the “sand-hogs” that I might think about.  It is the “other” tunnels - niches - caves and their contents that interests me more.  You see the “lid” on Afghanistan has been blown open (quite literally) as you can see.

So watch the content of those caves and caverns and cravasses folks.  The contents ARE important.  Their truth could save the world; or kept concealed - destroy it.  Meanwhile; I’ll just carry on with my bit and my pieces because like the tunnels, it all connects you know.

[First posted 2010.06.05 / Saturday  Three pictures of Qala Bist]

[Re-posted 2010.06.07 / Monday  Four pictures of Qala Bist]  7:45 P.M. Mountain War Time

[Add-a-post 2010.06.09 / Wednesday  Five pictures of Qala Bist]  3:10 P.M. Mountain War Time

Twin towers.

June 5th, 2010

~ Afghanistan, the lines of communication, and the Rachel Corrie (and a few other things).

No, this post is not about the “twin towers” that you might be thinking about.  Or, at least not so much.  Let me explain.

I think it was December of 2001 (maybe it was 2002) that I wrote my annual “Christmas letter” about “Camels in the snow”; about Afghanistan in winter and Afghanistan in summer because it is always summer in southern Afghanistan near Kandahar - going to Herat.

The camels in the snow picture is one of my favorites.  It was taken in northern Afghanistan of course - in Kabul.  It shows the fully loaded camels working (walking), standing in the snow next to our Mercury Station wagon; which because it is (was) a Mercury and now Mercury as a car name is now gone (this week’s news) makes me think that the picture and the post (meaning the Christmas letter) might be relevant even now.

I never sent the letter that year.  Everything was too depressing.  The nation was in one and moving toward two more “Asian” wars - “terror war 1″, Iraq war 2, Afghan war 4.  If you know your history you know that I am right.

Anyway, the twin towers imagery reminded me that year of the other and earlier towers spread across the lower stretches of Afghanistan.  I’m not talking minarets here; the tall towers around all the Mosques; there to watch (as in watch towers); there to listen (to the call from God); there to communicate to the people the love of God and the call to prayers.  My towers (the towers of which I reference) are older, much much older you see.  They ARE the towers that gave inspiration to the prophet Mohammad and to his followers and to the later architects and engineers of all his realms.  The towers were (of course - sure, you knew this all along) the towers of Alexander (as in “The Great”).

I used to climb the old abandoned towers in Afghanistan.  No, Alexander’s towers after 2,300 years WERE long gone.  But there were towers not unlike them (still left).  The old minarts at the ruins outside of Farah (Afghanistan) were perhaps the best example; stopped the car; I got out; walked over to the towers and slowly climbed the ancient spiral staircase up and up.  My parents watched, my mother worried a bit; my father knew I might learn something.  I did.

I was stopped about half way up by the broken stairs (really mud steps) supported by wood around a central pillar inside the larger pillar outside.  The “old forts” in America have many staircases of this kind - Fort Point (in San Francisco), Fort McKinley (in Maryland), Fort Saint Augustine (in Florida) - there’s one at a memorial in Gettysburg - you know the drill; if you don’t know, go see one.  About the mud, don’t worry.  The new ones (2,150 years newer) are all made of stone and marble - not mud; but then the new staircases are only 2 to 3 stories high; not the ten or twelve that I am talking about.

So Alexander the Great built these towers all the way from Greece to Kandahar as his armies marched (ever forward).  The towers were for communication, the secret secret of his success.  The towers “had his back” all the way back to Greece from where new troops, reinforcements, new armies could be summoned; called up; sent forth to reinforce those already on the front lines in (say) Kandahar (but I really mean in Gaza).

Of course he had other armies, closer than the ones in Greece; armies stationed all along the way near and in communication with the towers.  Any “enemy attack” could be rapidly responded to; any effort at a flanking movement, an attack from behind, a pincer point - you get my point.  The towers were the safety net of safety through clear unimpeded communication.

By day Alexander (in his towers) used the miracle of mirrors; flashed the sunlight across the arid wastes literally almost at the speed of light.  At night he used the fires (the signal fires), not the smoke.  Again messages moved nearly at the speed of light across all the half of Asia; from Europe almost to the Indus; Alexander always knew what was going on (and almost instantly).  It didn’t matter if he were in Kandahar or in Greece - he KNEW.  And he had fast horses too; in case of really bad weather.  The Pony Express thing, except he had horseman trained as runners (in case the horse died or was killed) - one could run that extra lap and get the message through in even the worst of weather (inclement as they say today).

In time his enemies learned to first attack a tower; then attack the main force (in Kandahar / or is it really the coast of Gaza?).  But Alexander’s generals knew that if a tower goes down (or off-line) that that is where the trouble is and bingo-bango “help was immediately on its way” (from two directions of course) in his own pincer move.

So with all this wisdom, foresight, and planning why do WE not speak Greek today?  The answer is quite simple.  It is the “two towers” problem; the message of the twin towers.  Here’s how it works; or why it doesn’t.  There is this line of towers; say numbered one to 33.  You want to take out a point at tower 11; you attack tower 7 and tower 4.  Troops rush from tower eleven to help towers 4 and 7.  The rest is history as (your) main force closes in for the attack.  In no time the tower game is broken, the lines of communication are gone, the empire crumbles.  And it did.

So watch your towers folks; there are NO easy lines of communication.  Think broadly, cast a wide and ever wider net; it IS like fishing, like the sea thing, like “fishers of men” or something.  Like if you fish; fix the net (work) first.  You get my drift.  Just a bit of history; a bit about Afghanistan; and now maybe I can find the pictures.

Love and peace on this almost D-Day and the first day of the Six Day War.

[First posted:  2010.06.05 / Saturday  Twin towers.]  12:40 P.M. Mountain War Time

Update:  3:50 P.M. Mountain War Time - Song links added to this post.  The ship Rachel Corrie is of course not the song Richard Cory, but thoughts such as this do cross ones mind.

The second song linked (above) is Ebony Eyes which is a reference to being lost in an air ship when the beacon towers (searchlights) originally set up by the Charles Lindbergh TSA (Airline) to guide planes safely across America failed (or at least failed to find this one ship).

Update:  4:25 P.M. Mountain War Time - Here come the pictures folks.  Near Kabul.

Camels in the Snow - Kabul, Afghanistan - December 19, 1958.

Photograph taken by Fred W. Clayton - This photographic image is copyrighted by Donald Clayton, all rights reserved - first published 2010 on QalaBist.com.

December 19, 1958:

This photograph was taken on the way from the Paghman Mountains on a trip to supervise the construction of the warming lodge for the first ski area in Afghanistan.  The rope tow poles would go up a few days later on a sunnier day.

Update:  6:25 P.M. Mountain War Time - The minarets.  So I’ve spent two hours looking for the “old” photographs of the very old minaret ruins.  They seem to be terribly out of focus, and there was only one picture.  Alas.  It also seems they may be gone now.  I can’t find like pictures in either Herat or Farah or anyplace in-between.  But this photograph gives you a good idea of the way it was - except the “was” was much older.  Anyway, Luke Powell has done a nice job photographing Afghanistan - so take a look at some of his other images; more modern than mine, but nice.

Photographic update:

May 29th, 2010

This is Post #49 in the new Series “Going to Afghanistan”.

Well, this is NOT really a post so much.  It is a notice about Qala Bist, the Arch at Qala Bist, Qala Bist about Afghanistan and Qala Bist (.com) and all those other good things that search engines Google.

So now that that is covered.  The NEWS is that there are New Pictures recently posted in the Afghanistan in Pictures series.

So click on the Catagory to the left, or click here to work your way back to the October 20 new stuff (and points in-between).  Or click here to get directly to Istalif, Afghanistan.

AIR LETTER - AEROGRAMME - PAR AVION; maybe not, but with Bagram we’re getting up speed.

[First posted:  2010.05.28 / Saturday  Photographic Update:]

November 7, 1958

May 26th, 2010

Noon gun (noon Cannon) firing in Kabul - November 7, 1958.

Photograph taken by Fred W. Clayton - This photographic image is copyrighted by Donald Clayton, all rights reserved - first published 2010 on QalaBist.com.

November 7, 1958:

No one is ever ready for the first blast from any cannon going off.  It’s all nice in theory.  Load, aim… fire.  The reality is always quite different, unexpected.  Hence we see the fussiness, the blur, the shock value caused by the shock of the weapon fired (and here only blanks) and not in anger as in a real war.  Hold your ears or hold the camera; maybe Fred’s ears are ringing still.

[First posted:  2010.05.26 / Wednesday  November 7, 1958]

Back in Kabul

May 21st, 2010

This is Post #48 in the new Series “Going to Afghanistan”.

November 18, 1958

AIR LETTER
If anything is enclosed this letter will be sent by ordinary mail
Red, green, and black aviation letter outline - 5 Af stamp of DC-3 over Kabul (blue)

Addressed to:
Mrs. Fred W. Clayton
405 N. Roop St.
Carson City,
Nevada U.S.A.

Senders name and address:
F. W. Clayton
USOM / A
Kabul, Afghanistan

Kabul
18 Nov. ‘58

My Beloved,

Just a note for today.  Back in Kabul at 9:30 A.M. yesterday with meetings most of the day.  Too tired to write last night.

Two meetings this morning.  One with the Ambassador.

No mail today so far.  Hope to get some letter in the day.

The rope tow is underway.

All my love
Your Fred.

Notes:  This letter sets a new record, 48 words.  Even Heinlein thought he could fit 68 words on a post card.  But post cards did not qualify as light weight air mail so Fred uses his rare and precious stamps on brevity of thought, or at least a brevity of expression.

I wonder if the American experience in Afghanistan is today like Fred’s two days.  Meetings, more meetings; talks with the Ambassador; skiing (or is it just skating, thin ice, the rope tow is “underway” - not finished yet).  Can it pull everyone “up the hill” to Kabul when it’s finished?

The news from Kabul yesterday was not good.  Another 48 words (about) about the officers that died; not the Ambassador of course, but the Taliban is working its way up through the ranks - crested eagles do make such good targets - am I sounding like Tokyo Rose?

Tokyo Rose (actually there were several, I’m talking the main one here) was from Hawaii.  Probably had a Hawaiian “Certificate of Live Birth”; nothing about being Japanese, the Japanese records part were in Japan (like she was) when she was caught (or captured) and encouraged to go on the radio and talk to the troops and play music from like You Tube but earlier.

Anyway, the woman who’s daughter opened Disneyland (cut the ribbon circa 1955) was a very good friend of “Miss Rose” (not her real Hawaiian name).  So was Disney (Walt) cavorting with aliens, or friends of aliens, or aliens with friends?  Maybe Ronald Reagan should have turned Walt in like he turned others in to the good Senator Joseph McCarthy and Joseph’s good friend and aide Robert F. Kennedy.  “Trust no one”, is the watch phrase of the X Files (series, and the movie).

Maybe.  The point again is that the history that you don’t know IS the history that will kill you; it’s the cosmic efficiency thing, smart parents don’t like to teach every lesson twice; it gets boring, is a bore, makes people wonder why children think it is so cool to act so dumb.  “You heard me the first time, now didn’t you?”  A pause, a look, an honest, “Yes, mam.”, or  “Yes, mom.”  “NOW, be on your way.”

So “be on your way” today.  Look back, remember - learn once, not twice.  More tomorrow.

[Post originally written:  2010.05.21 / Back in Kabul]

That reservoir reminds me of Lake Mead

May 19th, 2010

This is Post #47 in the new Series “Going to Afghanistan”.

AIR LETTER - AEROGRAMME - PAR AVION
Pre-stamped U.S. Postage 10c (with four engine propeller plane pictured)

Addressed to:
Mr. Fred W. Clayton
American Embassy - USOM Kabul
Department of State Mail Room
Washington 25, D.C.

Return Address:
Lloydine Clayton
405 No. Roop St.
Carson City, Nevada
U.S.A.

November 16, 1958
Sunday noon.

(1)
My Darling, Fred,

I love you so much and miss you.  Well, it finally happened - winter came!  Our world is white and blue with snow in the trees and icicles bedecking the bushes on the south.  It is a distinct change from as recently as Wednesday when I went up to Slide Mountain on a road that had only a few icy patches.  Yesterday chains were required to get out of Carson City every direction in the morning.  Now the restrictions are lifted, but things remain icy.  I am surely glad we had our ice and snow tires on and going.  Tonight’s prediction is from -10 to +8.  Night before last it was +7 in Reno.  I think we had more snow than Reno; they claim two inches.  Ours must have been 3-4.  I wish we had our storm covers for the windows.  Incidentally, do you want me to bring plastic storm covers for the windows there?  This will end the Indian summer that we have been enjoying for so long.

This morning there was talk of reconditioning skis, and they were even brought in for an inspection.  Now they are out again.

I have a chameleon on my arm right now trying to turn yellow, but not really succeeding.  The tough season has come as we can’t find any critters for her to eat.  Finally bought some fish worms, but she doesn’t care for those serpents; seems scared.  She has a small fish bowl home with some plants.

It was a hard decision to make but I finally decided not to go to Phoenix.  There was nothing I wanted to do more, but I think this is best.  It seems that not only are Bob Allen and Chet Newell going but both of their wives.  Noel and I talked about it and agreed that Mrs. Allen could make mountains out of mole hills much too easily and it might not do you, me or Noel any good for me to be there alone.  This particularly applies do to the political situation now and Noel does want to stay on the Commission, while Bob could quite likely make a change.  I had written Tanner and he said I would be welcome.  The social program would be very nice, but Noel thought the technical program a bit blah.

I am enjoying the fireplace finally.  It may break me up buying presto logs but they give such nice steady heat with so little watching.  The kitchen becomes very cozy nights and mornings.  Right now I have a small 4 x 6 rug in front of the fireplace, the cabinet moved back, and the yellow chair here to sit in.  I have the card table to write on, placed as close as I want it.  I think I may leave things this way quite a while.  They got this way on account of the living room rug.  I am very disgusted.  We had it cleaned so nicely, then when I asked the men to clean the 4×6 pink one they did it on top of the gray and the machine ran over the edges, this left brownish irregular areas.  Friday they came to reclean the living room rug and scrubbed for about 4 hours on it and now the whole center of it is a great big brownish area.  Apparently getting it wet causes some reaction from the back to come up and this is the result.  Keeping off it when it was wet was what put us into the kitchen.  I don’t intend to let them scrub on the rug any more for a while.  I’ll give them a piece and they can figure out what to do before applying any more brushes to the main rug.

I enjoyed your pictures so much.  It was nice to find the one with you in it, in your blue shirt and jeans.  You look like quite a powerful man, and with the Afghani friends it was nice.  I do hope you will make every effort to lose considerable pounds.  I am enjoying my 130 lb. Self so much, both for looks and for the vim and vigor which I feel, along with the lithesome feeling making me want to exercise and dance - no draggy feeling.  I find the best way is to eat moderately, nibble on non-fattening things and continue to feel so much pride in my appearance that I get more pleasure from that time than from eating more.  You have an extra problem with the parties and the alcohol, but please try.  I love you so much and am so proud of you, but with the svelte way I feel, I couldn’t help but feel some annoyance if you look fat around the chin.  We could make such a beautiful couple together if you were better consolidated too, and I do love people to admire us as a couple.  People still comment on our picture on the front hall.  It is nice!  Anyway, I did enjoy seeing you in your Afghan habitat.  Now I want to see that new hat in use.  I should say I loved seeing you in the picture - it made you seem closer.  Sometimes I need you so badly to recharge my battery.  I miss the chance to get dressed up and go out with a purpose.  You have too much social life; I not enough.  Things have their ups and downs, but not much flavor or savor anywhere.  I pray for strength to complete this most difficult of all assignments.

(2)
I think you have something in using this part of the paper.  I had forgotten it could be done.

Tuesday noon I go to Sparks for a lunch with ASCE (American Society of Civil Engineers) wives who are getting together to plan for the 1960 national convention to be held in Reno.  I can no doubt bolster their scared hearts and have some fun doing it.  Rose Meredith called me.

Going back to pictures.  I got the ones of your vacation.  We have some very interesting ones of Blackwater Falls , including one of me that I will send you.  Our flower close-ups did not come out too well in focus.  You surely got a load of airplanes while left in Washington with the camera.  As subject matter they always seem so dull to me.  We got a vague indication on the breakfast picture, but not complete.  I got some quite nice shots of Indians in the Admission Day parade.  This was gratifying because it was getting very dark and I had all the light I could get, not a shadow is visible - that dark.

(3)
Your pictures of Kabul from the hill are very clear.  I don’t know why but hardly any of your trees look green.  In one sequence I can tell this is because the pictures were taken in the late afternoon by the shadows - the results are a general yellow glow of sameness over everything.  Indoors in the pottery place came out clear, but indoors in the mill was a little too dark, but can see something.  The staff house looks nice and the musical group is interesting.  Maybe a little too many pictures of them.  Is that a cement kiln?  Your pictures of the river are delightful, so very clear.  The nomad camps are nice - what no dogs charging you!  That reservoir reminds me of Lake Mead.  Your pictures are very nice.  I’ll get Newells over after they return from Phoenix and see them projected, then keep the projector and study them for my own satisfaction.

All my love, darling.  Keep up the good work.  I appreciate the little letters as well as the big ones.  We’ll do our best for Afghanistan.

Sweet dreams and happy wishes.
Lloydine, Kenneth, Donald.

Notes:  We’ll start from the last.  “We’ll do our best for Afghanistan.”  A promise made more than 50 years ago and a promise I intend to keep.  My mother’s not around anymore to do it; nor my brother Ken, too.  That leaves me, and that’s why I’m posting.  But there are my mother’s words of illustration too, “I pray for strength to complete this most difficult of all assignments.” - a call to prayer for peace.

Sometimes it’s hard to read these letters; most of them I haven’t read for years.  They’re so truthful, so direct; Lloydine (my mother) just picks up the pen and goes - typewriter for her, keyboard for me - I come by this stuff honestly; you can hear it in her words.   Like in her description of the rug, “when it was wet was what”; even I can’t go on with five words like that, strung together in poetry and meaning.

But I too learn things from these letters; like my chameleon was not really dead!  I thought it died at the Lynchs (it almost died).  Now I remember that it did recover; over the pale and returned; like Kandahar coming back from the dead; like peace in Qala Bist; an end to war on war because war has ended.  The chameleon was last left working so hard to change colors; the flies were dead, wouldn’t eat the serpents.  I don’t make any of this stuff up.  (I will however change my posts to reflect the new reality - the chameleon lives!)

So Fred is a bit like Gordo (recent post).  But there’s a lot too to be said for fat; Michael Oher, Israel Kamakawiwo’ole, Buddha maybe.  But do those guys drink, eat at all the parties, fly to Kandahar instead of walking there like the Afghans and Pakistanis and all of their friends do?  How are the coalition forces getting to Kandahar; inquiring minds want to know.

My mother WAS always on Fred about his weight.  Is this perfect?  No.  Is she wrong?  I’m not so sure.  Sure she sounds at one point like an ad for Metrical (also recently linked within a post), but Metrical WAS all the rage then, “diets do this, diets do that - drink this and you will be thinner, slimmer”, get exercise, eat right, join REI or the Marines; let’s get America walking!  Maybe the gulf oil (spill) will get America walking, or riding bicycles like the Afghans; would make Lloydine happy - slim down, spend less.

Presto logs too are back; forget the great oak stakes, sawdust is what makes it; maybe it was the Dick Tracy thing, the comic strip within a strip, the power of subliminal suggestion in the ’50’s.  “Wrist watch radio”, by any other name a cell phone (at hand and in your ear).  The future is not invented; it just jumps off every page.

I was going to do a whole post on Fred and his Nikon camera; Kodachrome were his colors.  Beat Paul Simon by maybe 20 years.  If you saw the link to the Paul Simon song you saw many things were missing.  The old slide projectors maybe number one; the old slide boxes number two.  The third thing missing in the video were the hand-held slide viewers; the ones like Lloydine had to use.

The projectors (slide projectors) were expensive, had unreliable bulbs.  The bulbs were hard to buy (except maybe in New York City) and hard to replace once you found one.  A fan could keep them cool, but every fan made a lot of noise, “want to see Fred’s slides?”; “maybe; but I think I hear my job calling; Phoenix calling, gotta run.”  “Gee Lloydine, that was great; too bad about the projector; too bad about the fan; it would have been nice to hear what you had to say.”

So why not wait 50 years?  The future has now “flown off the page”.  It’s all so quiet now; so still - so easy to listen to this woman’s words now and not to have to listen over the sound of vacuums and vacuuming and dish water boiling over and the men with their machine destroying the rug.  But in the silence the sounds still come through.  Like Lloydine would have wanted.

You may have noticed her imitation, a paraphrase, of Fred’s description of HIS room.  Lloydine will never miss a beat; she’s perceptive and competitive - compares his pictures with hers; holds no punches; tears Fred apart sometimes, but loves him (dearly) just the same.  It was probably easier to be Lloydine’s son than her wife; but the son part was no easy walk to freedom.  Freedom is a hard road and a high road.  It takes no prisoners.  One better be absolutely right or should go home.

I could write all night about just this one letter (this “post”).  I could point out things like Lloydine still thought Afghans (people) were Afghanis (money).  I could write about the fact that that confusion still seems to exist.  But I won’t.  There will be more letters, more time; other days to make my points.  Life is so circular (not linear); we keep returning to where we’ve been before; sometimes a little higher - but it’s the same plan as the floor below, same living room, same presto logs in the fireplace to keep one warm.

I know you want to see more pictures.  I know you want more (the Series) posts.  But I will leave you with just this one thought - from John Fowles and the Magus - “you will return there like the first time, like in the first moment that there ever was.”  And if you remember; in that first moment of Afghanistan EVERYTHING was ahead.

What does not lie ahead for Lloydine is the Public Service Commissions conclave in Phoenix.  Maybe Arizona too is not for you.  Her excuse (reason) was her reputation, Fred’s reputation, the reputation of others.  It’s so fifties to worry about “reputations”.  People now get slammed and slandered all the time; America has become “the land of the rude”, the “in your face”, the “he said, she said thing totally out of control”.  Mountains out of mole hills?  You would think Arizona was the home of Mount Everest, K-2, and the Big Island of Hawaii all rolled into one.  Mrs. Allen was maybe not wrong; just way ahead of her time.

[First posted: 2010.05.19 / Wednesday   That reservoir reminds me of Lake Mead]

The Battle for Kandahar

May 15th, 2010

This is Post #46 in the new Series “Going to Afghanistan”.

The complete series can now be read (or reviewed) from the beginning - beginning from Post #1 by clicking on “Going to Afghanistan Series” on the sidebar.  It is a “read down” format.  The only important point is to remember to select “Previous entries” not “Next entries” when you reach the bottom of a page.

Most of the more recent posts have pictures.  These posts can be most quickly accessed by the Afghanistan in Pictures” catagory on the sidebar. 

This is the Ides of May.  It has been ten (10) days since my last post on Afghanistan, where we last left Fred, in Kandahar, talking about New York mail and Christmas; Spin Baldak and Lashkar Gah.

We have needed time to let things happen, needed time to attend to other things before they happen, needed time to get ones house in order before meddling in others affairs.  I thank you for your patience.  It is patience and endurance that the Afghans know best; I know - the Afghans (when I was young) they taught me; they taught me a thing or two.

You are (meaning me) impressionable when you’re young.  It is the time when lessons stick; when mistakes stick out; when lessons can hurt when one is scolded, punished without reward, punished unjustly.  When you are young you never forget.  You carry the images (often the hurts) to old age, with each new year they fester until you forgive because otherwise you can’t forget.

America has never asked for forgiveness.  America is too young.  Without forgiveness America cannot be forgiven, will never be forgiven, the rest of the world (much older) will never forget.  This is the message of the Battle for Kandahar, now forming, people deciding and taking sides.  I fear it will be an epic battle; a battle for the desert - in the worst time to fight; in the heat of summer when one lives underground or ends up in it (meaning underground).

It is the battle of our (meaning the U.S. of A.) choosing.  We had the choice - fight or flight.  The airports were ready; we could have “pulled out”, but we chose to stay in.  In Vietnam (at the end) they called it “fuc*ing” as in “That Fuc*ing war”.  After My Lai and Tet, after Cambodia and all the bombing, after all the wasted money and wasted lives; after the drugs brought home to roost - you think some might remember and say, “Never again!”  They did not!  They (meaning the military, the Congress, the Labor Unions, the daily people) have not remembered; so it MUST happen again.

We know how this will end.  I wish it otherwise.  100,000 (about) U.S. troops have invaded and occupied my (almost) native land.  The invasion was based on lies and based on broken promises and based on treaties never kept.  It is as predictable as Antietam, as the Peloponnesian wars, as Alexander entering Kandahar and leaving his name still on the map.  What history do they teach at West Point if the point of history is never made?  You carefully choose your battles, the place, the time; or you can (and will) loose your whole country, the whole reason for the war.

But hubris has taken over.  We think we can not really lose this thing.  We think that the friendlies have got our back, that we have friends; that everyone else too always forgets.  President Karsai went to Washington, he flew.  He met the President (the new one), shook hands, ate meals, had a few words to say - smiled for the cameras; it’s nice to smile for the cameras.

But I know what Karsai was thinking.  With Washington he was NOT impressed.  Obama does not impress him.  He’s seen it all before.  He knows a loser when he sees one - harsh words that must be said; save our self from “soft power” that is getting softer everyday.

At best it will be a Pyrrhic Victory.  Like the Alamo in Texas (Afghanistan is always being compared with Texas) all the defenders (of Texas) dead; but we will remember (this time) “The Alamo” and all the bloody loss there in and will change history, or at least change how it is remembered.

Kandahar will be no John Wayne movie.  Of this I am sure.  There will be no heroes, no fond memories, no looking back on “colors that don’t run”.  One can remember the run in Korea, the Marine Corps “advance to the rear” at the Chosin Reservoir (Qala Bist always remembers the water - that awful noise - Mother Country).

Fight or flight or flights or both.  Fred built the airport; he built it to get out or to get in.  We’ll try to get back to Fred before all of Kandahar is a ruin, like Qala Bist, more a part of the past than the present; but we’re rebuilding brick by brick.  Save Kandahar!  Save Kandahar?  I don’t know.  The last time I was there I was leaving; flying OUT on a plane; fifty (50) years ago this summer, July, I’ll mark the date.  It was a long hot summer.  Sometimes the world seems to just stand still.

[First posted: 2010.05.15 / Saturday  The Battle for Kandahar]

A week and a day from now.

May 4th, 2010

This is Post #45 in the new Series “Going to Afghanistan”.

The complete series can now be read (or reviewed) from the beginning - beginning from Post #1 by clicking on “Going to Afghanistan Series” on the sidebar.  It is a “read down” format.  The only important point is to remember to select “Previous entries” not “Next entries” when you reach the bottom of a page. 

Note:  I realize that the number of posts in the Going to Afghanistan Series makes it difficult to access photographic updates - like the new photographs at “21 years” and “Information on rope tows”.  The solution is an index that links Post Names to Posts, alas Wordpress for not auto-generating one.  Alas, another project.  I should start with Posts with pictures - aha!, I can make a new catagory - “Afghanistan in Pictures”.

LETTER

Addressed to:
Mrs. Fred W. Clayton
405 N. Roop St.
Carson City,
Nevada U.S.A.

Senders name and address:
F. W. Clayton
USOM / A
Kabul, Afghanistan

Kandahar
Sunday night
16 Nov. ’58

My Darlings,

Today I wrote a note at the airport and asked a friend to mail it in New York.

As Tues. 11 Nov. was a holiday they sent the pouch on Monday and I missed getting a note to you Monday.  As I was here Saturday I missed the pouch again so now I’m in a “crash program” to get a letter to you.

Jack Bennett and Ray Burrus are carrying this to New York where they will mail it next Friday.  You should receive it by Monday, a week and a day from now.

Ray and Jack are also bringing your Christmas presents, Lloydine.  I bought them only after I knew they would reach you in time.  There are three stones - perhaps for a ring and ear rings or anything else you want.  I hope the other items will be enjoyable this winter.  Things for the boys are not as easily shipped so you’ll have to take care of their Christmas as well as for the rest of the family as originally agreed.

Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and part of Saturday were spent in meetings on the airport problem.  Wednesday and Thursday we met with M. K. (Morrison Knudsen) in Kabul - Mr. Greenleaf, Vice-President came out from San Francisco.  Friday morning we transferred the meetings here to Kandahar - the construction site.  The details of this problem could fill a book which I don’t have time to write now.

Friday afternoon I went from Kandahar to Spin Baldak and return in order to look at the road.  It was an interesting trip and coming home after dark we saw several foxes with beautiful tails!

Saturday afternoon I took a drive and went to Lashkar Gah and stayed overnight.  While there I looked at the Helmand River Bridge problem.

Another problem here is the Kandahar electric supply and distribution.  Again I’m in the middle of this.  Progress is being made however.

As stated before I think your Christmas plans are excellent and hope you could include New Years on Market Street.

I thoroughly enjoyed your three letters covering your Nevada Day activities.  I lived every minute of it as I read it.  Wish I could have seen it and been there.

I have been invited to the Shooks for Thanksgiving.  Mr. Shook went to school and worked for Jim Jennison!  Jim’s wife is Mrs. Shook’s best girl friend!  This is my latest “Small World Story”.

For Christmas I’ve been invited to the house of Mr. Rafique (sp?), a member of the R.G.A. Foreign Office.  I consider this a great compliment.

Boys, congratulations on your excellent report cards.  Keep up the good work.

I’ll try to answer a few of your questions.

The pictures of the Taxi Stand and the Tonga Stand were taken at the railway station at Amritsar, India.

The Hong Kong suit is beautifully done.  The tailor was Chinese trained in San Francisco about 1911 and has his certificate on the wall.  He took complete measurements and never wrote anything down while doing it.  He memorized everything as he went along.  Later I asked about ordering clothes by mail and was told that I could as they had all my measurements recorded.

I’ll try to review the Amritsar incident in toto later as it is very detailed.  We finally flew into Kabul from Amritsar arriving about 3:30 P.M. Kabul time.

The enclosures are for your records to aid in filing the income tax.

I must close now and get to bed.  Tomorrow morning at 7:00 A.M. I’ll go back to Kabul.

Good night
Beloved Darlings,
All my love
Your Fred
and
Father

Notes:  Fred has been a month and a half in Afghanistan and he is still writing about Hong Kong and Amritsar.  Time seems not to be moving, the consciousness is now thinly stretched across half the world; but wait, Bennett and Burris are on their way (the other way round) to New York, with Christmas presents - so the consciousness is clearly stretched all around the world.  It’s Christmas in May, Afghanistan in April; do you really know where your parents are?

Fred was always buying stones.  It started in Burma; exotic lands, exotic rocks.  He bought rubies and sapphires, perhaps a bloodstone or two.  They sold them on the “black market”, he did not believe in such things, but he did believe in geology which he knew a thing or two about.  Hemme (Lloydine’s mother) was a gemologist, a Rock Hound, a maker of jewelry of sorts.  We’re not talking diamonds here; we’re also not talking glass.  Hemme’s forte was semi-precious stones, big samples of Chalcedony, sulphur, sometimes silver - the kind of rocks that rock rockhounds - trips to the desert, that sort of thing.

Hemme discovered a whole petrified forest once, on her own, never noticed before; or at least there was no record.  So Fred had a hard act to follow, he had to find rocks and stones that Hemme had never found, halite after “whatever” crystals, arguments with the experts at the Smithsonian and Stanford, synthetic diamonds when they were new, that was the life of Hemme - like Fred said, he was sending a few rocks.

The rocks (the stones) from Afghanistan were lapis lazuli, blue birthstones of the gods.  The blue is as blue as blue can get without being the cobalt blue of Nevada skies (and Nevada cobalt rocks).  The blue stones are flecked with gold, gold embedded in the blue rocks midst.  The rocks are as old as the mists of time, mined (then) in the small mines of Afghanistan, legendary stones carrying legends of all time.  The legends are all caught up in the origins of all things, the birth of worlds, the beauty and purity of God.  Lapis lazuli as a stone is not just a rock - it’s history;  it too carries with it a part of the history of Afghanistan.  Rings, pendants, earrings - you decide what to do with these stones now - just as Lloydine had to once.  Dig them out, cut them, carve them, polish them, wear them - or just leave the rocks and stones alone.  Mining in Afghanistan?  Mining for what?

This post might have been called “The Foxes of Afghanistan” (allusion to women maybe, with beautiful tails) the sex factor, the smut factor, the sexualization of all things American.  But Fred was not interested in foxes, he was noticing the real animal life; foxes, hyenas, bald eagles, snow leopards - where are they all now.  Aren’t you glad that Fred could see them (in Afghanistan in the wild, not just a zoo).  Don’t you wish you could “go there” too?

This post might have been entitled “The problems of Afghanistan” (illusions of winning over the Afghan people, giving them everything they need, getting out someday in better shape than when one went in).  It’s not going to happen.  It didn’t happen 50 years ago and it isn’t going to happen now.  America can spend 500 years in Afghanistan, it will never make a difference.  Afghanistan is older, wiser, more knowledgeable and educated about what it is in life that really matters.  The Afghans may not get everything right, but there is so much that they don’t always get wrong - like America does with its intervention;  America has never gotten it right even once.

The point is made by the fact that you didn’t know what the R.G.A. was.  It was the Royal Government of Afghanistan; the kings men, if not too, the kings horses.  When did you last have a Muslim man over to your house for a Muslim holiday (assuming you are Christian)?  That is the point here.  It is why Afghanistan is strong and America is weak.  America (as a country) lacks the courage to embrace things that are foreign, to honor foreign perspectives and customs in the sanctity of ones own home - “my house is your house”, but in Afghanistan it means to tolerate all your guests prejudices and predilections to the point where the “my” is no longer part of the equation.  Then (and only then) the whole thing snaps shut.

It is like the seat at the Christian table, the guest that forgets they are a guest is lost.  The parable too has been lost on most all “Christians”, so why post about it on another day?

Finally, Fred reminds us that America is NOT the nation of all aspirations and all dreams.  It is the parable of the tailor from Hong Kong, came to America, learned something, then went back.  He lived happily ever after in Hong Kong, not in America - in China, not in the U.S.A.  The “stop the emigrants” campaign is a sign of our hubris, our self love for the country that “we got”.  It does not address the needs of others; it does not address the fact that most of the “others” do not want to live (or stay) in America at all.  It is an American dream to build walls to keep people out that don’t even want in.

In the very divisive ’60’s the patriots said, “America, love it or leave it”.  Since then many millions (of Americans) have done just that.  They’ve left there “precious” country, left all the “freedoms and the rights” , left the long gone wide open spaces, the factory towns, the bullsh** and the grief.  There are a million blogs from the ex-pats in every nation; happier now than they ever were then (or before).  Americans in Afghanistan; it’s not just the troops, real Americans live there too - but now they think of themselves as more the Afghan.  I could have easily been one of them too.

[First posted: 2010.05.04 / A week and a day from now.]

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